Route of the day
All points shown were part of the original itinerary. Not all were visited — decisions made along the way are a natural part of any expedition. We kept them on the map in case you wish to explore them yourself.
What we lived
Today was a full safari day. After breakfast at Okaukuejo, we set out through the park, moving between waterholes and stopping whenever the road offered something worth watching.
Our first stop, the Okondeka waterhole, had ostriches and springboks visible in the distance — but before we could reach the water’s edge, a lioness appeared on the road. We followed her slowly in the cars for several minutes, at a distance that felt absurd — two or three metres at most — while she walked completely unbothered, not once acknowledging our presence. It is, by any account, an encounter that most people never get. She eventually made her way to the waterhole to drink. For most of us, nothing else that day came close.
The next two waterholes — Adamax and another nearby — were completely dry. A quiet morning. On the way back to camp we detoured to Gemsbokvlakte, which more than compensated: a black rhino, dozens of zebras, springboks, impalas, and wildebeest all gathered in one place. Back at the lodge, the waterhole beside the camp added elephants, kudus, springboks, and zebras before lunch.
We headed out again at four, revisiting three waterholes. The driving brought a large herd of zebras, springboks, and giraffes. At Olifantsbad on the return, a family of seven elephants — two adults and five juveniles — crossed the road and made their way to the water to drink. We watched until the light began to fade and we had to leave. Driving after sunset is not permitted in the park.
Dinner, then a final visit to the lodge waterhole: rhinos, hyenas, jackals, and giraffes. Two members of our group went further — setting an alarm to check the waterhole in the early hours, when they found elephants and a black rhino drinking alone in the dark.
Photo of the day
Video
Video
Gallery
Our tips
Move between waterholes rather than waiting at one. Dry waterholes are common, especially outside the rainy season — the animals follow the water, so spread your time across several stops. The lodge waterhole at Okaukuejo is worth checking at multiple points through the night, not just after dinner.
Did you know?
At a waterhole, there is a clear hierarchy. Elephants hold absolute priority — when a herd arrives, every other animal moves aside immediately, sometimes scattering in all directions. Within the herd, it is the oldest matriarch who drinks first. Predators like lions use waterholes as hunting grounds, and prey animals know it: they avoid drinking at night when lions are most active, arrive in larger groups for safety, and spend more time scanning for danger rather than drinking. The most vulnerable animal at any waterhole is the giraffe — to reach the water, it has to splay its front legs wide and lower its enormous neck to the ground, leaving it completely unable to run for the few seconds it is drinking.
Tomorrow we head to...
Halali and Namutoni